In our last post in this series we looked at how to pick up around the armholes to knit the sleeves. Knitting the sleeves is fairly simple, although, if you're a newer knitter you may have to pick up a new skill: knitting small circumferences in the round. You might also want to adjust the sleeve length for a better fit. As the sleeves are tapered you'll want to adjust the spacing of the decreases rather than simply knitting the sleeve until it's the right length like you did for the body. Fortunately I made making those changes really easy with a spreadsheet that you can plug your numbers into – it does all the maths for you!
If you're making size 6 or larger you should be able to begin the sleeve with a 16" / 40cm circular and switch to a different method after working the first few rounds – you'll know when it's time to switch because your stitches will get stretched around the needle and won't flow smoothly as you knit. If you're making a smaller size you'll want to start off with one of the following methods.
Double pointed needles (dpns)
The traditional method that makes you look like a badass, but can be a bit tricky to juggle, especially with larger needles like the ones used for Glenmore. Divide the stitches over 3 (or 4) needles, so that the EOR gap is between two needles (you might want to mark this with a removable marker since a regular stitch marker will fall off). Don't worry about dividing the stitches perfectly evenly. Here's a tutorial on using dpns.
A way to use a longer circular needle to knit smaller circumferences by pulling out the extra cable into loops. The nice part of this is that you can use the needle you used for the body of the sweater and don't need to buy extra supplies, it's also a bit more portable than dpns. The stitches will be divided in two, with one half on the needles and one half resting on the cable. Once you've worked across all the stitches on the needle you rearrange the stitches so that the resting half are now on the needles. Here's a magic loop tutorial if you haven't tried it before.
Similar to magic loop in that the stitches are divided in half, but they're split between two circulars (these can be any length but 16" / 40cm is easiest to manage). Each half of the stitches is only ever worked with its own circular, at the end of one half you'll drop the needles and pick up both points of the other needle, sliding the stitches up so that the next stitch to be worked is on the left needle tip. This method requires more supplies, but some people find it easier to manage and faster than magic loop or dpns. Here's a tutorial for this method.
Before beginning the sleeves you may want to try on your in progress sweater and measure from the shoulder edge of the armhole down to your wrist. This is a bit tricky to do on yourself so if there isn't someone else available you could tie a piece of yarn to the shoulder, try on the sweater, cut the other end of the yarn to the right length, take off the sweater and measure the yarn.
Compare your desired measurement to the sleeve measurement on the schematic, and if you need to make any changes, use the spreadsheet linked in the pattern to update the numbers in the pattern.
Here's a brief tutorial of how to use the spreadsheet and mark up your pattern with the adjustments. It also covers changing the bicep circumference but that will require adjusting the armhole as well as the sleeve. If you forgot to do so you should be able to get away with small adjustments of 2-4 stitches by changing the number of stitches that are picked up around the sleeve.
There are a few things to pay attention to while knitting the sleeves:
You don't have to do anything special to sign up, just buy the pattern and share your progress. Use the hashtag #glenmorekal on instagram, twitter and your Ravelry project, so everyone can see your photos and come and say hi in our Ravelry group. There will be prizes!
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If you knit socks, then learning how to darn a sock is a vital skill! Our free tutorial by Arounna Khounnoraj of Bookhou will teach you how to darn socks, sweaters, and any other knitwear that needs it.