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by Ysolda support@ysolda.com April 10, 2020

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Glenmore is worked top down, so the first step is casting on for the neck. You'll cast on for the back neck, plus 3 stitches for each shoulder on either side, and one stitch on either side for the front neck. You'll then work back and forth on these stitches, increasing at the shoulders and, after a few rows, at the edges to shape the front neck. Then you'll cast on for the front neck, connecting the two front shoulder sections with a little bridge of cast on stitches.

Casting on for the neck and placing markers

To finish the neck of your sweater you'll pick up stitches from this cast on and work a ribbed neck band. Adding the neckband at the end gives the sweater more structure and prevents it stretching out. That means you'll want to use a stable cast on method like a long-tail cast on.

Cast on the number of stitches given in the pattern for your size.

 

On the following row, you'll place 4 markers.

The shoulder increases

On row 3 you'll begin working the increases for the shoulders. The increase method used is the lifted increase. If you haven't tried technique before there are both step by step photos of the first 2 increases below and a video tutorial of the increase method. It's totally worth learning something new for the beautiful line it creates along the shoulders – I particularly love lifted increases when I'm working top down because the defined stitches between the increases look like they're the right way up.

Right Lifted Increase (RLI)

The first increase is a right leaning lifted increase worked before the first marker. 

Knit the first stitch. You will be working the increase stitch to into the right side of the next stitch, before working the stitch itself- this is a Right Lifted Increase (RLI).

Insert the right needle tip into the right half of the stitch directly below the left needle.

Open this stitch slightly and place this loop onto the left needle.

Knit into this stitch normally.

Increase complete. There are 2 stitches before the first marker.

Left Lifted Increase (LLI) 

The next direction is to slip the marker, k3, slip the next marker, and work an increase to the left of the last stitch worked - this is a Left Lifted Increase (LLI).

Using your fingers, open the stitch column slightly to identify the row two rows below the stitch on your right needle.

Insert the left needle tip into the purl bump below and behind the stitch just worked, and lift this strand onto the left needle.

Knit into this stitch.

The increases will be repeated on either side of the second pair of shoulder seam markers. After completing row 2:

 

Right Lifted Increase Purl (RLIP)

On the wrong side, purl to the marker. The first increase is worked before the first marker.

The increase will be worked into the purl bump directly below the left needle.

You can purl directly into the loop if you wish, or lift it onto the left needle with the leading edge on the right. Purl into this loop.

Left Lifted Increase Purl (LLIP) 

Work to the next marker and slip it. The increase will be worked into the second purl bump down from the right needle.

Insert the left needle tip into the purl bump from below and lift it onto the needle.

Purl into this loop.

Lifted increases video tutorial

If video suits you better, here's a tutorial I made illustrating these increases. You may well find watching the video and then looking at the still photos works best for you.

lifted increases from Ysolda Teague on Vimeo.

Setting up the dot stitch pattern

 On row 5 you'll begin working the dot stitch pattern between the back markers,

and at the shoulder section at the end of the row. This will eventually be the top of the front right shoulder. Remember to increase at the markers while you're focussing on the stitch pattern!

On row 5 you'll purl to the last marker and then set up the dot stitch pattern for the right front shoulder. It might feel a bit strange to work the stitch pattern on the wrong side rows for this section, but there's a good reason for doing so. 

When you cast on for the neck you’ll be bringing the two front edges around and joining them with the cast on. That means that you’ll work across the part that was at the end of a right side row, cast on, and then work across the part that was the beginning of right side rows. Since you’d already worked those stitches at the beginning of that right side row, you’d have two pattern rows stacked on top of each other if you didn’t offset it on that section earlier.

Don't worry if that didn't make sense, just follow the pattern and know it will work out when you cast on for the neck. 

Here's how your Glenmore should look after the first few rows:

And after repeating rows 8-11 once, make sure you repeat these rows the number of times given in the pattern for your size. 

In our next post we'll look at shaping the neck and joining in the round.

Join the Glenmore KAL!

You don't have to do anything special to sign up, just buy the pattern and share your progress. Use the hashtag #glenmorekal on instagram, twitter and your Ravelry project, so everyone can see your photos and come and say hi in our Ravelry group. There will be prizes! 

Read all posts in the Glenmore KAL series. 

Found this post helpful? Pin it for later

Graphic for pinterest. Top image a black woman with a short hairstyle and glasses talks with someone out of frame. She is wearing a mustard yellow oversized textured knit jumper. Text says 'Getting started on Glenmore' Middle images show white hands casting on with grey yarn using a long tail cast on. Bottom image white hands are showing the first few rows of knitting on circular needles.

 

Ysolda support@ysolda.com
Ysolda support@ysolda.com

Ysolda designs knitting patterns, spent years teaching at events and loves to find new yarns and books to share.



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