The last post on Glenmore covered everything up to the underarms and, if you're following along you should now have a yoke piece with a neck hole in the middle, sloped shoulders and a front and back the same length. You're making great progress! In this post I'll show you how to join your flat front and back yoke pieces in the round, to work the body.
You should have the front yoke stitches on the needles, and the back yoke stitches on hold.
The first step is to work across all of the front stitches in pattern.
You'll then cable cast on stitches for the underarm, placing a marker between the middle two cast on stitches.
To cable cast on turn the work so the wrong side is facing and the last stitch you worked is on the left needle. Insert the right needle into this stitch knitwise.
Wrap the yarn and pull through, but don't drop the stitch off the left needle.
Slip the new stitch to the left needle by inserting the left needle into it from right to left
and pulling the right needle out. Slipping the stitch this way creates an extra twist, and extra stretch in your cast on.
Cast on the next stitch by inserting the right needle between the first two stitches on the left needle.
Wrap the yarn and pull it through,
and slip the stitch to the left needle in the same way as before.
Continue casting on in this manner, adding a marker to the left needle tip after the number of stitches specified in the pattern. Turn the work back to the right side.
Fold the sweater at the shoulders, wrong sides together.
Beginning at the opposite armhole from your cast on stitches slide the held stitches for the back to the needle tip, next to the front stitches. The right side of both front and back stitches should be facing outward.
You can now arrange the needles so that the stitches you just cast on are on the right needle tip, and the back stitches are on the left. Using the working yarn work across the back stitches in pattern.
Cast on for the underarm in the same way as before. The marker placed at the centre of this cast on will be your EOR marker and the cast on stitches after it will be the first few stitches of you next round. It might help you to keep things straight by using different markers for each underarm.
Knit the next round, making sure to stop at the EOR marker. On the next round you'll set up the faux seams: one stitch on either side of each marker is knit on every round, rather than being worked in the dot stitch pattern. You should incorporate the other cast on stitches and selvedge stitches from the upper front and back into the dot stitch pattern. Read your knitting to maintain the checkerboard appearance of the dots, the pattern might be different on front and back.
Now you've got a big chunk of fairly mindless knitting as you knit the body down to the bottom hem. My next post will focus on how to decide on the right body length for your particular body, and on working the bottom ribbing.
You don't have to do anything special to sign up, just buy the pattern and share your progress. Use the hashtag #glenmorekal on instagram, twitter and your Ravelry project, so everyone can see your photos and come and say hi in our Ravelry group. There will be prizes!
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Congratulations to our Glenmore KAL prize winners! If you're still working on your Glenmore this blog series will stay up, so you can refer back to the tutorial for any section as you knit at your own pace. For inspiration and motivation check out all the lovely Glenmore projects here.