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by Ysolda support@ysolda.com April 16, 2020


In my last post about Glenmore we joined the sweater in the round by casting on for the front neck. In this post we'll look at splitting for the front and back, making adjustments to the armhole if you need to adjust your sleeve fit, and shaping the underarm. 

When the shoulder increases are complete the back and front are worked flat, and rejoined at the underarm, to create the armhole openings. The back is worked first, on the stitches between the back markers, plus 2 stitches from each of the shoulder "seams".

On the last round before separating the front and back, you'll work only three increases, skipping the usual one right before the EOR marker. This balances out the fact that you worked across these stitches once more than the others when joining in the round, so the total number of increases worked at each shoulder remains the same.

You'll slip the EOR marker, k to the next marker, remove that marker, work across the back stitches in dot stitch to the next shoulder marker, remove that marker and knit two. 

The front stitches, plus the remaining 1 stitch from each shoulder "seam" are put on hold while working the back. 

I used the Cocoknits leather stitch holder to put my stitches on hold, which is a lovely tool that's really pleasing to use and allows you to resume knitting your held stitches by knitting them straight off the leather cord. You can also use scrap yarn threaded on a darning needle to hold your front stitches. 

After the front stitches are placed on hold, continue working the back in the dot stitch pattern as established.

You'll be purling every wrong side row, and working the dots on the right side. To maintain the stitch pattern and correctly arrange your dots you'll need to look at the previous rows dots (the purl stitches). Make sure that if a stitch was purled on the previous right side row, that it's knit on the current row, and vice versa, so that your dots make a checkered pattern.

Turn everything over so the wrong side is facing you. You'll begin working the back with a wrong side row, beginning with the stitch your working yarn is attached to. 

At the edges there is a 2 stitch wide stocking stitch selvedge, which will make it easier to pick up stitches for the sleeves, and adds a nice design detail to the sweater. Make sure you knit the first and last 2 stitches of each right side row to maintain the selvedge.


For sizes 1-7 of Glenmore you'll knit the back, and then the front, straight down to the underarm with no further shaping. If you're interested in sweater construction or design, this is a modified drop shoulder armhole – it's totally straight, but there's casting on at the underarm takes a little bite out of the square of the body for the underarm.  

For sizes 8-12, at the end of both the front and back, you'll increase at each side to create more of a curve around the bottom of the armhole. This helps to prevent a common problem in plus size garments – shoulders that are disproportionally wide. Even though the style of Glenmore is that the shoulders are much wider than your actual shoulders, my goal is that they're proportionally the same amount of oversize across the size range. Since the difference between the shoulder width will be much smaller than the difference between the chest circumference of someone who wears a size 1 compared to someone who wears a size 12, the shaping of the sweater needs to be a bit different. 

The increases are worked on right side rows in the same way as the neck shaping increases: a left leaning lifted increase after working the first 2 stitches of the row, and a right leaning lifted increase 2 sts before the end. 

When the back is complete you'll place the back stitches on hold, break the yarn and return the front stitches to the needles.

Rejoin the yarn at the right shoulder, with the right side facing. To join the yarn simply insert the needle into the first stitch, wrap the yarn around the needle, pinching the tail end with your left hand, and knit the stitch. 

Make sure your yarn tail is at least 6" so you can weave it in later.

When both back and front are complete you'll be ready to cast on for the underarms and work the body in the round.

Join the Glenmore KAL!

You don't have to do anything special to sign up, just buy the pattern and share your progress. Use the hashtag #glenmorekal on instagram, twitter and your Ravelry project, so everyone can see your photos and come and say hi in our Ravelry group. There will be prizes! 

Read all posts in the Glenmore KAL series. 

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Ysolda support@ysolda.com
Ysolda support@ysolda.com

Ysolda designs knitting patterns, spent years teaching at events and loves to find new yarns and books to share.

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