The mitts begin at the cuff which is worked in the round using the magic loop technique. A provisional cast on is used to add stitches for the hand which is worked back and forth in garter stitch with an I-cord edge and decreased across the live cuff stitches. Instead of a traditional gusset, shaping for the thumb is added by working across the hand and remaining cuff stitches, decreasing where they join to create a triangle of garter stitch across the palm. The remaining garter stitches are joined to the provisional cast on stitches above the thumb with a three needle bind off and triangular gusset that is worked downwards to join the remaining thumb stitches. The thumbs are then worked in the round. The only cast-on and bound-off edges are at the base of the cuff and the top of the thumb and the only finishing required before gifting is weaving in the ends and blocking.
The pattern includes detailed step-by-step photos.
kaerlig_v1.2.pdf
Fingering weight yarn with good elasticity, wool or wool blends are ideal.
Shown in MadelineTosh Tosh Merino Light (100% Merino, 420yds / 384m, 3.53oz / 100g) in Tern (additional photos in Ink).
100[150, 210, 260, 345, 415]yds / 90[135, 190, 240, 315, 380]m
Yarn quantities include padding to account for differences between knitters but do not include yarn for swatching.
Scrap yarn, spare needle of any kind in the same or slightly smaller size as the working needle
28 sts and 56 rows = 4" / 10cm in garter st
40 sts and 48 rows = 4" / 10cm in 2x2 rib (un-stretched).
Fingering weight yarn with good elasticity, wool or wool blends are ideal.
Shown in MadelineTosh Tosh Merino Light in Tern and Ink.
Size US 2½ / 3mm 24" / 60cm or longer circular needle.