You've made it to the very last Glenmore tutorial, and I'm so proud of you! I hope you have a sweater that makes you feel amazing, and that you've enjoyed the process. If Glenmore was your first garment know that you've built a great foundation for a handmade sweater wardrobe that's exactly what you want to wear.
Congratulations! If you’ve made it this far on your Glenmore sweater the only knitting you have left to do is the neckband. Don't worry if you're still working on the body or sleeves, there are no knitting police, and now more than ever we all deserve to cut ourselves some slack when it comes to productivity, especially for the things we're doing for fun.
How to knit the sleeves on Glenmore, and, if necessary, adjust them to fit your body perfectly. Did you see that the pattern includes a spreadsheet you can use to easily alter the sleeves without doing any maths.
I love my original Wardie, but wanted a slightly different style for this grey one to wear around the house with pjs or leggings. I stalled out on what to do with the buttonband as I knew I didn’t want it to have buttons. I’m not really a cardigan person and much prefer pullovers.
In my last post I showed you how to cast on at the underarm and join the body of Glenmore in the round. The actual knitting of the body should be nice and relaxing, without anything complicated, but you might be undecided about how long to make it.
In my last post I covered getting started on Glenmore. In this post we'll look at shaping the neck and joining in the round. The next post in this series will go over splitting for the front and back, making adjustments to the armhole if you need to adjust your sleeve fit, and shaping the underarm.
Glenmore is worked top down, so the first step is casting on for the neck. This post covers the cast on, setting up your markers, working lifted increases to shape the shoulders and establishing the stitch pattern.