by Laura Chau August 02, 2019

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Welcome to the Inverleith KAL! We're knitting Inverleith, a boxy tee with beautiful drape and a novel construction, between July 15 and September 16, 2019. Jump in anytime and join us on the Ravelry forums for discussion, questions, and chat. Tag your Ravelry project with #inverleithkal to be entered for prize drawing in September!

Flat image of Inverleith with back armhole completed.

With the back armhole complete, it’s time to move onto the fronts. The right and left fronts are worked similarly to the back, but with stitches cast on at the centre front for the neck. Today we’ll take a look at 2 different methods for casting on in the middle of the row, and joining the body to be worked in the round.

Mid-row Cable Cast-on

Neck edges of Inverleith, ready to work the left front

Here’s the beginning of the right front completed, with the cut yarn tail at the center front neck. To replace the left front stitches onto the needles, pull out the right needle tip so that the right front stitches are on the cable. Working from right to left (neck edge to armhole), slip the left front stitches onto the right needle and remove the waste yarn. With the wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn and work the left front stitches only.

Purl side of Inverleith fronts with yarn attached at centre neck

When you’re ready to join the left and right fronts, purl across the left front.

Turn work so RS is facing and work a cable cast on to the left needle

Turn the work so the RS is facing, and begin working a cable cast-on onto the left needle: *Insert the right needle tip between the first two stitches on the left needle.

Wrap yarn around right needle as if to knit.

Wrap the yarn as if to knit.

Bring this new stitch down under the left needle and between the two stitches.

Bring this new stitch down and to the front between the two stitches.

Elongate this stitch by pulling it towards you.

Pull out the stitch towards you a little to elongate it.

Place this new stitch on the left needle.

place it on the left needle.

Continue working cable cast on until required number of stitches have been cast on.

Repeat from * until the required number of stitches have been cast on.

Turn work so WS is facing and purl across right front.

Turn the work so the wrong side is facing, and purl across the right front stitches.

Completed join of left and right fronts.

The front has been joined! Work even and/or armhole increase rows as given for your size. All D+ sizes have some additional increase rows towards the bottom of the front armhole.

Note: Modifying the Armhole Depth

Inverleith is basically a drop-shoulder construction without much of a sleeve, so it’s easy to modify the depth of the armhole for a larger or smaller sleeve opening. This also applies if your row gauge is different than the given row gauge of 7.5 rows per inch.

Artsy angled photo of Inverleith armhole before joining

To modify the armhole depth, work fewer or additional rows in the “work even” portions of the back and front armhole before joining to work the body in the round. Since we can’t knit half a row of height, let’s round the row gauge to 8 - that means that for every 8 additional/fewer rows, the armhole will be 1” longer or shorter.

Keep in mind that this applies to the front and back, so an additional 1” armhole depth will add 2” to the sleeve circumference.

Make sure to write down how many rows you’ve added to the back so you’ll remember for the fronts!

Joining the Front and Back

To join the front and back below the underarm, we will knit across the front stitches, cast on for the right underarm if necessary, knit across the back stitches, and cast on for the left underarm if necessary.

Slip held back stitches onto working needles, at opposite end of working yarn.

I prefer to place the held back stitches onto the needle before working the joining round. To do this, slip the stitches from the back onto the working needle, at the opposite end to the working yarn.

Now we’re ready to work around the body. Here we will use a different method for casting on in the middle of the round - the backwards loop. The backwards loop cast on is worked onto the right needle, and is the easiest way to cast on mid-row.

Make a twisted loop over your left thumb and place it on the needle.

Make a loop over your thumb and place it backwards on the right needle. You’ll know you’ve got it right when it doesn’t just fall off! Repeat for the required number of stitches.

Place side marker and continue casting on if necessary for your size.

Place a marker for the right side, and cast on after it if necessary for your size.

If your size says cast on zero, place marker for side and continue onto back.

If your size says to cast on 0 sts, just place a marker for the side and continue onto the back stitches.

Use a different marker for the left side to indicate the beginning of the round.

Repeat for the other armhole with a unique marker - this marker will also indicate the beginning of round. After you've finished casting on for the second underarm, knit around back to the beginning of round.

Top-down shot of Inverleith with body joined for working in the round.

Ready to work the body in the round! Sizes 1-4 have a few decreases below the join, while the remaining sizes are worked straight down to the hem.

I’ll be back in two weeks to go through splitting the front and back hem and setting up for the sleeves. Don't forget to join us on the Ravelry forums and tag your Ravelry project with #inverleithkal to be entered for prize drawing in September!

A Chinese-Canadian woman with glasses smiling at the camera.
Laura Chau

Laura is a Canadian knitter, designer, and editor.



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