April 17, 2014
After swatching in pattern you may discover that your chosen yarn/ pattern pairing do not go together at all; the stitch definition may get lost; the colours may over power the lace; or the pattern that looked delightful as a chart might be a mess when knit up. On the other hand it may get you even more excited to cast on and start your project.
Stitch dictionaries tend to include helpful information like ‘cast on a multiple of 5 + 2.’ This means that in order to follow the directions as given you should cast on any multiple of 5 stitches, plus 2 (7, 12, 17, 22…).
The additional stitches are used to create a balanced pattern. This number does not include any edge stitches and you will probably want to add 2 or 3 stitches of garter stitch at each side. So for a pattern with a multiple of 5 + 2 I might cast on 38 sts for my swatch and work 3 stitches in garter at each end.
Patterns for shawls or sweaters often incorporate the instructions for a stitch pattern into the general directions. Look for the directions for a full repeat and carefully count the number of stitches in the repeat. If the pattern is worked flat or in a panel it may be obvious how many additional stitches are needed to work a balanced pattern, but it really doesn’t matter if your swatch is symmetrical, so don’t worry too much about this! For an example check out this post on extracting a swatching pattern from the Sherilyn shawl pattern.
Swatching in the round
Often stitch patterns will have different directions for working flat vs in the round. Whether you’re knitting flat or in the round can also affect gauge so it’s important to work the swatch the way the majority of the project will be worked. The fact that you won’t need to convert the stitch pattern directions is just a bonus!
Once you’ve finished and blocked your swatches you’ll need to measure them to ensure you’ve got the correct gauge. You may find that counting individual stitches or rows in stitch patterns more difficult to count, but since you can figure out how many stitches/rows are in a pattern repeat it can be faster to count pattern repeats. In the example below there are 4 rows per pattern repeat so 10 repeats x 4 row = 40 rows for 4 inches.
Sometimes it’s even easier than that and the motif or cable width is given, add some stitches to either side of the motif so your swatch is big enough to spread out and then measure the motif.
You can find even more information on swatching on pages 18–29 of Little Red in the City.
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Tombreck - a free chevron beanie pattern
Working the brioche neck detail on the Polwarth sweater
Installing a zipper and ribbon, finishing wee Carson
Yarn colour ideas for Threipmuir sweater
Additional colourways for the Joy mitts (choose your pride flag)
How to join the shoulders on Wardie
How to join the pockets on Granton and Wardie
Finishing Resources for Granton
Broughton mittens tutorial part 1
Broughton mittens tutorial part 2
Broughton mittens tutorial part 3
Decorative Channel Island Cast-on
3 Easy Stretchy Bind-offs (p2tog bind-off; k2togtbl, k1 bind-off; Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off)
Tubular Bind-off for brioche stitch
Paired increase methods compared
How to continue in pattern while increasing and decreasing
Brioche stitch double decreases
How to Knit in the round using Magic Loop
How to Knit in the round using DPNs
Avoiding ears when binding off
Tighter purl stitches for neater cables and ribbing
Cabling without a cable needle
How to knit more symmetrical yarn overs
Bust darts in sweaters with all over stitch patterns
A magic formula for evenly distributing shaping
Superwash v Non-Superwash Wool
Picking up sts from the middle of the fabric
Understanding "continue in pattern"
Help! Where am I in my knitting project?
Using charts, even if you hate them
Joining the body and sleeves on a seamless bottom up sweater
Ysolda’s sizing chart for knitwear designers
How to pick a garment without a model for you (specifically addresses finding garment patterns when your gender identity isn't represented and the styles you want to knit might not be sized to fit your body)
How does ease affect inclusive size ranges?
Identifying and fixing mistakes in lace knitting
Getting started with stranded colourwork
Understanding colour dominance
Working stranded colourwork over small circumferences
Decreases in stranded colourwork
Holding the yarn for stranded colourwork
Ladderback Jacquard (a neat way to deal with long floats)
Cabling without a cable needle
Cabling without a cable needle on the wrong side
How to knit cabled decreases
Closed ring cable increases and decreases
How to work brioche stitch in the round
How to begin your first large cross stitch project
How to finish a cross stitch project with an embroidery hoop frame
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