Separating out the pocket stitches is quite similar to separating the sleeve stitches. This time though, the number of stitches cast on will be equal to the number put on hold, leaving a hole for the pocket opening. When it’s time to finish the pockets, the held stitches will be returned to the needles and knit down on the inside of the cardigan to create the back of the pocket. The body of the cardigan will look like it continues down into the pocket and body is continuous over the front of the pocket, unlike a patch pocket. To create the garter stitch edging at the top of the pocket the stitches, the cast on stitches are worked in garter stitch for a few rows.
Before starting the pocket opening you’ll need to gather a darning needle, 2 pieces of scrap yarn and 4 stitch markers.
Work as directed to the beginning of the pocket opening, then slip the stitches purlwise onto the scrap yarn like you did with the sleeve stitches. You’ll ignore these stitches until you’ve finished the rest of the cardigan so you don’t need to decide yet if you want real or false pockets.
Unlike separating the sleeves where you only cast on a few stitches, cable cast on the same amount of stitches you put on hold, remembering to put in the markers. Work the second pocket opening like the first.
On the next three rows knit the stitches that were cast on, to create the garter stitch edging at the top of the pocket.
After finishing those 3 rows you’ll continue the rest of the body in pattern, finishing with the garter stitch edging at the bottom. When it comes time to bind off the body, you don’t need a special technique, just remember not to do it too tightly, so there’s a bit of elasticity for little tummies.
I didn’t think of this when we started the buttonholes, but we thought it was worth mentioning. You may have encountered this type of buttonhole before and used a double yarn over ‘ssk, yo2, k2tog’ instead of ‘ssk, yo, k2tog.’ For both of these you work into the yarn over twice on the next row by knitting and then purling. Using the double yarn over makes a buttonhole that is too big and loose, but working a single yarn over and then working into it twice makes it much neater.
On Wednesday I’ll talk about the sleeve setup, pockets and finishing. Let us know in the comments if you’ve any questions, and if you’re knitting along with us feel free to share pictures of your progress in the Ravelry thread.
Do you struggle with tight bind offs? Whether you’re knitting a toe-up sock, a top-down sweater, or a lacy shawl, a bind off that’s too tight can really get in the way of enjoying your finished project! Here are 3 easy methods to work a stretchy bind-off without sewing.