May 26, 2014
Separating out the pocket stitches is quite similar to separating the sleeve stitches. This time though, the number of stitches cast on will be equal to the number put on hold, leaving a hole for the pocket opening. When it’s time to finish the pockets, the held stitches will be returned to the needles and knit down on the inside of the cardigan to create the back of the pocket. The body of the cardigan will look like it continues down into the pocket and body is continuous over the front of the pocket, unlike a patch pocket. To create the garter stitch edging at the top of the pocket the stitches, the cast on stitches are worked in garter stitch for a few rows.
Before starting the pocket opening you’ll need to gather a darning needle, 2 pieces of scrap yarn and 4 stitch markers.
Work as directed to the beginning of the pocket opening, then slip the stitches purlwise onto the scrap yarn like you did with the sleeve stitches. You’ll ignore these stitches until you’ve finished the rest of the cardigan so you don’t need to decide yet if you want real or false pockets.
Unlike separating the sleeves where you only cast on a few stitches, cable cast on the same amount of stitches you put on hold, remembering to put in the markers. Work the second pocket opening like the first.
On the next three rows knit the stitches that were cast on, to create the garter stitch edging at the top of the pocket.
After finishing those 3 rows you’ll continue the rest of the body in pattern, finishing with the garter stitch edging at the bottom. When it comes time to bind off the body, you don’t need a special technique, just remember not to do it too tightly, so there’s a bit of elasticity for little tummies.
I didn’t think of this when we started the buttonholes, but we thought it was worth mentioning. You may have encountered this type of buttonhole before and used a double yarn over ‘ssk, yo2, k2tog’ instead of ‘ssk, yo, k2tog.’ For both of these you work into the yarn over twice on the next row by knitting and then purling. Using the double yarn over makes a buttonhole that is too big and loose, but working a single yarn over and then working into it twice makes it much neater.
On Wednesday I’ll talk about the sleeve setup, pockets and finishing. Let us know in the comments if you’ve any questions, and if you’re knitting along with us feel free to share pictures of your progress in the Ravelry thread.
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Learn brioche with the free Daniel's Hat pattern
Tombreck - a free chevron beanie pattern
Working the brioche neck detail on the Polwarth sweater
Installing a zipper and ribbon, finishing wee Carson
Yarn colour ideas for Threipmuir sweater
Additional colourways for the Joy mitts (choose your pride flag)
How to join the shoulders on Wardie
How to join the pockets on Granton and Wardie
Finishing Resources for Granton
Broughton mittens tutorial part 1
Broughton mittens tutorial part 2
Broughton mittens tutorial part 3
Decorative Channel Island Cast-on
3 Easy Stretchy Bind-offs (p2tog bind-off; k2togtbl, k1 bind-off; Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off)
Tubular Bind-off for brioche stitch
Paired increase methods compared
How to continue in pattern while increasing and decreasing
Brioche stitch double decreases
How to Knit in the round using Magic Loop
How to Knit in the round using DPNs
Avoiding ears when binding off
Tighter purl stitches for neater cables and ribbing
Cabling without a cable needle
How to knit more symmetrical yarn overs
Bust darts in sweaters with all over stitch patterns
A magic formula for evenly distributing shaping
Superwash v Non-Superwash Wool
Picking up sts from the middle of the fabric
Understanding "continue in pattern"
Help! Where am I in my knitting project?
Using charts, even if you hate them
Joining the body and sleeves on a seamless bottom up sweater
Ysolda’s sizing chart for knitwear designers
How to pick a garment without a model for you (specifically addresses finding garment patterns when your gender identity isn't represented and the styles you want to knit might not be sized to fit your body)
How does ease affect inclusive size ranges?
Identifying and fixing mistakes in lace knitting
Getting started with stranded colourwork
Understanding colour dominance
Working stranded colourwork over small circumferences
Decreases in stranded colourwork
Holding the yarn for stranded colourwork
Ladderback Jacquard (a neat way to deal with long floats)
Cabling without a cable needle
Cabling without a cable needle on the wrong side
How to knit cabled decreases
Closed ring cable increases and decreases
How to work brioche stitch in the round
How to begin your first large cross stitch project
How to finish a cross stitch project with an embroidery hoop frame
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