October 29, 2020
Finull PT2 is a well loved classic wool yarn in Norway, for good reason. Spun from 100% Norwegian wool this traditional sport weight 2ply yarn is soft enough to wear next to (most!) skin and grippy enough to steek. In other words, with a huge range of colours it's perfect for colourwork, creates a glowing texture of stitches, and is sturdy enough to make cables pop but with a drape that makes it lovely in lace too.
Finull is woollen spun, meaning that the fibres are carded before spinning into a loose, airy blanket of fibres going in all different directions. The resulting yarn is light, airy and lofty creating garments that perfectly balance functionality and comfort.
It's often labelled as a 4ply / fingering weight but we consider it closer to a light sport. If you're familiar with Shetland Jumper weight this feels similar but is a little thicker and denser. The lofty 2 ply can be worked at a wide range of gauges depending on the project. The heathered neutrals, especially, bloom well at looser gauges.
Rauma Finull has remain unchanged for decades, beloved by generations of Norwegian knitters, and for good reason. I know that any project I cast on in this versatile workhorse will be beautiful, enjoyable to knit and a pleasure to wear. It works at a wide variety of gauges, and the colour palette is unrivalled so there's plenty of options to fuel my creativity – one of my desert island yarns. Ysolda
It's impossible not to be inspired by the huge range of over 100 colours, perfect for colourwork and fair isle shading. There's a wonderful selection of neutrals, ideal if you're looking for that sweater-that-goes-with-everything, and they work brilliantly too when paired with brighter shades. The new heathers round out the colour palette, and go with our favourite natural colours.
Finull's smooth and rustic texture makes it a great choice for garments in both stocking stitch and garter stitch. Although a pure wool, it's not too crunchy and fluffs up with integrity when blocked. We love its stitch definition, and the resulting fabric is sturdy, light and warm.
A perfect yarn for heirloom garments that will last for years, we've used it in designs like Stockbridge, Wardie, Ravelston and our new Abbeyhill kits.
Well known as a dream yarn for colourwork projects, finull has the perfect stickiness that allows your stitches to hold together in the fabric, and bloom beautifully after washing. Choosing colours can often be the most difficult part (and when there are over 100 to pick from that's understandable!) but our blog post on choosing colours for colourwork projects should help you navigate your choices and find the perfect combination. Read more in our post here.
Finull PT2 swatched in colours 417, 4025 and 483 using 3.25mm needles.
There are a huge amount of colourwork designs ready for you try with finull. It makes gorgeous hats, mittens, socks as well as garments. Some of our favourites include the Bellfield and Cairngorm hat (which is swatched above), Mīlēt mittens, and it would make an amazing Cruden vest.
The loft of finull makes for bouncy, three dimensional cables and the kind of definition that makes cables really pop. The pure wool means that it has good grip too, so when making cables without a cable needle there's little chance of your stitches slipping away.
We loved knitting up swatches for our Abbeyhill sweater where you get the best of both worlds with finull - a combination of beautiful more structured cables with the soothing, smooth stockinette.
The wonderful bloom Finull gives coupled with its light and bouncy drape mean that it can make wonderful lace projects. 2-ply yarns tend to create yarn overs that, when blocked, open up into well defined holes that show the pattern clearly and finull is no exception. For many it's soft enough to wear next to the skin, and can make heirloom blanket projects that will last and be loved for years. We swatched a square of the Vivid Blanket pattern by Tin Can Knits, and found that finull held its lace pattern so well, even after being stretched and moved around - just what you need when knitting a lace blanket that's going to see a lot of use.
Finull PT2 swatched in colour 483 using 3.5mm needles.
Have you tried knitting with finull? We'd love to hear about your experience and what you've made, and you can leave a review too on the product page here too!
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Learn brioche with the free Daniel's Hat pattern
Tombreck - a free chevron beanie pattern
Working the brioche neck detail on the Polwarth sweater
Installing a zipper and ribbon, finishing wee Carson
Yarn colour ideas for Threipmuir sweater
Additional colourways for the Joy mitts (choose your pride flag)
How to join the shoulders on Wardie
How to join the pockets on Granton and Wardie
Finishing Resources for Granton
Broughton mittens tutorial part 1
Broughton mittens tutorial part 2
Broughton mittens tutorial part 3
Decorative Channel Island Cast-on
3 Easy Stretchy Bind-offs (p2tog bind-off; k2togtbl, k1 bind-off; Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off)
Tubular Bind-off for brioche stitch
Paired increase methods compared
How to continue in pattern while increasing and decreasing
Brioche stitch double decreases
How to Knit in the round using Magic Loop
How to Knit in the round using DPNs
Avoiding ears when binding off
Tighter purl stitches for neater cables and ribbing
Cabling without a cable needle
How to knit more symmetrical yarn overs
Bust darts in sweaters with all over stitch patterns
A magic formula for evenly distributing shaping
Superwash v Non-Superwash Wool
Picking up sts from the middle of the fabric
Understanding "continue in pattern"
Help! Where am I in my knitting project?
Using charts, even if you hate them
Joining the body and sleeves on a seamless bottom up sweater
Ysolda’s sizing chart for knitwear designers
How to pick a garment without a model for you (specifically addresses finding garment patterns when your gender identity isn't represented and the styles you want to knit might not be sized to fit your body)
How does ease affect inclusive size ranges?
Identifying and fixing mistakes in lace knitting
Getting started with stranded colourwork
Understanding colour dominance
Working stranded colourwork over small circumferences
Decreases in stranded colourwork
Holding the yarn for stranded colourwork
Ladderback Jacquard (a neat way to deal with long floats)
Cabling without a cable needle
Cabling without a cable needle on the wrong side
How to knit cabled decreases
Closed ring cable increases and decreases
How to work brioche stitch in the round
How to begin your first large cross stitch project
How to finish a cross stitch project with an embroidery hoop frame
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