November 08, 2019
Ysolda and Bex teamed up to create Bleideag, a super cozy circular yoke pullover worked in classic Létt Lopi wool with details in Einrúm L+2, a unique yarn made up of Icelandic wool and Thai silk.
Bleideag is easy and relaxing to knit, available in a wide size range, and would be perfect for your first colourwork sweater project! The larger needles and quick chunky gauge make short work of this classic wardrobe staple. Here are links to tutorials that will help you tackle Bleideag, every step of the way.
How to swatch for sweaters
It's nearly impossible to control all of the variables that might affect the gauge in the swatch vs the finished garment but there are certainly some things you can do to maximise the honesty of your swatches - this blog post discusses what those things are.
Swatching in the round
Swatch the way the project will be worked:
A good general rule and in this case that means swatching in the round if the project will be worked in the round. This tutorial from 2014 explains a simple way to make your swatches more informative.
Choosing a size to knit
To get the best fit you'll want to know what size you are, and how to read the sizing information provided in your pattern.
An alternating cable cast on is a useful, stretchy cast on for ribbing that’s less fussy to work than a tubular cast on. It’s worked like a regular cable cast on, but instead of casting on each stitch knitwise stitches are alternately cast on knitwise and purlwise.
This tutorial includes both step by step photos and videos so you can use whichever suits you better.
Bleideag is worked in the round seamlessly from the bottom up. Starting off a bottom-up sweater is generally very simple, since you cast on all the stitches for the body and don’t need to worry about working any immediate shaping (increases or decreases). Instead you can just get your stitches situated and settle in comfortably by working some ribbing before beginning the first stranded colourwork chart.
The bit of colourwork detail around the hem and cuffs is a gentle warmup for the yoke pattern. The main part of the body and sleeves are worked in stockinette in one colour, perfect for taking your knitting on the go (or just watching something engrossing).
Joining the body and sleeves can be a bit confusing if you haven’t worked this style before. Stitches on the sleeves and body are placed on holders for the underarm gusset, and the remaining stitches are all worked onto one needle.
Joining sleeves and body on a seamless bottom up sweater
When you’re knitting a bottom up sweater and reach the directions for ‘joining the body and sleeves’ do you find it difficult to visualise how the pieces fit together? This tutorial talks you through the process, with helpful pictures.
This tutorial discusses how to decide how to hold the 2 colours in your colourwork and why being consistent is important
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Once the sleeves and body are joined, a few raglan decrease rows are worked along with short rows, to raise the back neck for a comfortable fit.
A great advantage of working bottom-up is saving the best for last! Working stranded colourwork is great fun once you’re in the swing of it, especially with a beautiful yarn such as Einrúm. And since you’re decreasing throughout the yoke, the rounds go faster and faster. The yoke decreases on Bleideag are worked in pattern for a subtle, clean look. A bit more ribbing for the neck and you’re done!
Armed with all this knowledge, are you ready to knit Bleideag?
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Learn brioche with the free Daniel's Hat pattern
Tombreck - a free chevron beanie pattern
Working the brioche neck detail on the Polwarth sweater
Installing a zipper and ribbon, finishing wee Carson
Yarn colour ideas for Threipmuir sweater
Additional colourways for the Joy mitts (choose your pride flag)
How to join the shoulders on Wardie
How to join the pockets on Granton and Wardie
Finishing Resources for Granton
Broughton mittens tutorial part 1
Broughton mittens tutorial part 2
Broughton mittens tutorial part 3
Decorative Channel Island Cast-on
3 Easy Stretchy Bind-offs (p2tog bind-off; k2togtbl, k1 bind-off; Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off)
Tubular Bind-off for brioche stitch
Paired increase methods compared
How to continue in pattern while increasing and decreasing
Brioche stitch double decreases
How to Knit in the round using Magic Loop
How to Knit in the round using DPNs
Avoiding ears when binding off
Tighter purl stitches for neater cables and ribbing
Cabling without a cable needle
How to knit more symmetrical yarn overs
Bust darts in sweaters with all over stitch patterns
A magic formula for evenly distributing shaping
Superwash v Non-Superwash Wool
Picking up sts from the middle of the fabric
Understanding "continue in pattern"
Help! Where am I in my knitting project?
Using charts, even if you hate them
Joining the body and sleeves on a seamless bottom up sweater
Ysolda’s sizing chart for knitwear designers
How to pick a garment without a model for you (specifically addresses finding garment patterns when your gender identity isn't represented and the styles you want to knit might not be sized to fit your body)
How does ease affect inclusive size ranges?
Identifying and fixing mistakes in lace knitting
Getting started with stranded colourwork
Understanding colour dominance
Working stranded colourwork over small circumferences
Decreases in stranded colourwork
Holding the yarn for stranded colourwork
Ladderback Jacquard (a neat way to deal with long floats)
Cabling without a cable needle
Cabling without a cable needle on the wrong side
How to knit cabled decreases
Closed ring cable increases and decreases
How to work brioche stitch in the round
How to begin your first large cross stitch project
How to finish a cross stitch project with an embroidery hoop frame
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