July 15, 2019 0 Comments
We’re thrilled to release the single pattern for Inverleith, the pattern from Ysolda’s first sweater club kit! The pattern is now available for purchase on its own, and we’re hosting a knitalong through the end of the summer to help you work through the pattern with lots of tutorials and tips.
I (Laura) will be posting regularly here throughout the summer on the blog with lots of tutorials and tips, and we’ve also started a thread in the ysolda group on Ravelry for more discussion, questions, and chat! We’d love to see your projects, so please use #ysoldainverleith or #inverleithKAL so we can find you on Instagram or Twitter. Tag your Ravelry project to be eligible for prizes too!
Schedule of Posts (subject to change!)
July 19: Right and Left Lifted Increase Tutorial
July 26: Dividing the Sleeves and Body
August 2: Casting on for the neck and joining the body
August 16: Working the split hem and starting the sleeves
August 30: Binding off and finishing
September 16th: finished project deadline for prizes (winners will be randomly drawn from finished projects on Ravelry tagged inverleithkal)
Inverleith is a top down tee with beautiful drape and a simple construction - no short rows. It’s specifically designed to have similar proportions across the size range; with two options for cup sizing built in it’s a boxy shape that works with whatever curves you have. The shoulders are worked in one piece and then divided for front and back. The front and back are each worked flat and then joined in the round at the underarm. Folded cuffs are worked by picking up stitches around the armhole and the neck is finished with a simple edging worked by picking up stitches, knitting one round then binding off. There is no seaming and very minimal finishing.
Inverleith is written for 12 sizes and each size includes two bust shaping options. It is designed to be worn with 6–8" of positive ease at the full bust. The shoulders and chest have different proportions to each other in the smallest vs largest size, which allows for the sleeve bands to be in a similar position on the body across the size range. The result is that different sizes look different laid flat but closer in style when worn.
Sizes: 1(2, 3, 4, 5) [6, 7, 8, 9] (10, 11, 12)
A–C: 36¾(39¾, 42½, 45¼, 48) [50¾, 52¾, 55¾, 58½] (61¼, 64, 66¾)" finished bust circumference
D+: 40¾(43½, 46¼, 49, 51¾) [54½, 57, 59¾, 62½] (65½, 68¼, 71)" finished bust circumference
D+ sizes include additional bust shaping and are approximately 4" / 10cm larger at the bust than the corresponding A-C size. Choose a size closest to your full bust measurement plus desired amount of ease. If the difference between your high bust and full bust measurements is less than 4" or you do not have a bust make the closest A-C size and if it is larger than 4" make the D+ size.
An important thing to note: All sizes begin with the same shoulders and back. The A-C sizes have a front and back that are equal in width, whereas the D+ sizes have an additional 4" on the front side only. So no need to worry about a baggy back when working the bustier sizes!
My high bust is 38”, and my full bust is a little over 42”, so I’m definitely doing the D+ size. I’ve chosen the size 4, which gives me just about 7” of ease at the bust.
Our Inverleith sweater club samples were worked up in Ysolda’s Sedum yarn, hand dyed by Sarah in the studio. This lightweight blend of 40% merino, 30% linen, and 30% silk has a yardage of 600m/656 yds per 100g skein. This custom yarn isn’t available on its own yet, so here are some substitution ideas for yours! We held 2 strands of laceweight together for a lovely light fabric, but you could also use a single strand of heavy fingering weight or sport weight yarn. Plant fibre blends with good drape are ideal for warmer weather. The gauge in stockinette, after blocking, should be 23 sts & 30 rows in 4”.
Some Suggested Yarn Substitutions
Handmaiden Lino - 65% silk, 35% linen, laceweight
Anzula Breeze - 65% silk, 35% linen, laceweight
Berroco Remix Light - 100% recycled fibres (nylon, cotton, acrylic, silk, linen), fingering weight
Blacker Yarns Lyonesse 4-ply - 50% linen, 50% corriedale wool, fingering weight
BC Garn Lino - 100% linen, sport weight
Handmaiden Flaxen - 65% silk, 35% linen, sport weight
Kelbourne Woolens Mojave - 60% cotton, 40% linen, sport weight
Malabrigo Susurro - 50% silk, 25% merino, 25% linen, sport weight
Laceweight yardage (2 strands held together)
A–C: 1520(1675, 1805, 1925, 2110) [2255, 2340, 2515, 2645] (2830, 3020, 3115) yds / 1390(1530, 1650, 1760, 1930) [2060, 2140, 2300, 2420] (2590, 2760, 2850)m
D+: 1610(1770, 1905, 2025, 2210) [2350, 2450, 2635, 2765] (2955, 3150, 3250) yds / 1470(1620, 1740, 1850, 2020) [2150, 2240, 2410, 2530] (2700, 2880, 2970)m
Sportweight yardage (1 strand)
A–C: 760(835, 900, 960, 1055) [1125, 1170, 1260, 1325] (1415, 1510, 1560) yds / 695(765, 825, 880, 965) [1030, 1070, 1150, 1210] (1295, 1380, 1425)m
D+: 805(885, 950, 1010, 1105) [1175, 1225, 1320, 1385] (1475, 1575, 1625) yds / 735(810, 870, 925, 1010) [1075, 1120, 1205, 1265] (1350, 1440, 1485)m
I knit quite loosely, so I went down a couple of needle sizes for my first swatch. But I overcompensated, and it was too tight at 25 sts in 4”! I ended up on 3.75 mm for my main needle size, and I’ll probably use the suggested 3mm needles for the neckband.
Here's a post we did awhile ago on how to swatch for a sweater, and how to work a swatch in the round. If you have a difference in tension between knitting flat and in the round, you may need to change needle sizes once the body of Inverleith is joined below the underarm. And don't forget to block your swatch!
Coming Friday - a lifted increase tutorial.
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